By TUDOR FINNERAN
Global Business Journalism reporter
Before I had ever set foot in China, I wrote a book titled "Across China in 250 Pages." This book, which I am sure helped in my application to Tsinghua University, cultivated my interest in this land and its culture. It provided me with a sound network of fairly successful expats within China who read the and liked it.
Now, I am on day 225 of my stay in China, I have enough experience and knowledge to really break down events and aspects I would add to the next book, alongside the eight other books I have since written. The focus of the book was very much from an outsider looking in, focusing on seven chapters divided into seven aspects of life here.
This article is for those who have read the book or those considering a move to 中国Zhōngguó (that is China 🇨🇳 in Chinese!) and broken down into seven new subchapters.
Mao Zedong meets with reporters at his cave headquarters in Yan'an in 1944.
1. Communism: A True Understanding
Since joining Tsinghua University I expressed an interest in learning about modern social and cultural understanding. This roughly translates to communicating what is happening in China with the rest of the world. Since then, I have joined several trips with the Communist Youth League and the Belt and Road Initiative. My trip to Yan'an, followed in the footsteps of Edgar Snow. If you do not know who he is, it is well worth a quick google.
The trip, to the very origin point of modern communism provided me a true understanding of Chinese communism. Unlike the often-simplified Western narratives, Chinese communism is communism in theory, but in actuality more of a national socialist model. This only become more clear with time spent in China, where I see the systematic models in play. I also observe this version of a political system has only survived and thrived due to the very nature of the Chinese people. There are elements of their culture which enable communist governance to take hold, unlike the West.
In turn this has led to it being one of the last nations under this ruling system. As fascinating as this is, the historical context of the cave systems, down to the formation of the red guard at Tsinghua Middle School to the Long March south and attack on the “Four Olds” highlighted the true history of China.
Spending time with these modern Communists also changed my mind dramatically. They are aware of the flaws, the history and even the negatives, but preach this revitalized version of the left-wing philosophy that I happen to agree with… in many ways. This firsthand experience is something I could not have predicted, observed or assessed without such a deep dive.
You can read more on this in my article "The making of a modern Communist."
2. Luxury Cultural Tourism: Educating Travelers
Luxury cultural tourism is the way to educate both domestic and international travelers on ancient Chinese history. It makes it fun; it makes it interesting and despite a lot still being hidden or destroyed.
I would argue China has more ancient sites and focus on conserving its historical heritage than most other nations.
In addition to this environment, the youth are more interested in their own history than most other nations. This seems true irrespective of their own background. I have talked to countless Chinese nationals, from all parts of China, and they educate me on the dynasties. Could you say the same for the English youth wanting to talk and share knowledge on the historical monarchies?
What’s more, in China, they will even go on historical pilgrimages – dressed in era or dynasty style clothing. This is immersive, this is interesting. It is what paved the way for the topic of my journalism master’s degree portfolio — "Enhancing Communication Strategies of Domestic Chinese Companies with Western Tourism Sectors Post-COVID: A Focus on Luxury Cultural Tourism."
Since coming to China, I have visited Suzhou, Xi'an, the Tulous of Fujian province, and about five rural ancient towns. This exposure has been fascinating, yet it remains underexplored by most Westerners.
Even typing this now I cannot quite put into words the feeling of seeing an ancient settlement, but what’s more, the farmers, old villagers and locals still eating, and living in a traditional style unchanged since those early days.
It really does show there are two Chinas. The first version can be seen in the Tier 1 cities, which is like going 100 years into the future. The second China is in parts of the countryside. It is like going back in time (124 years) to the Qing Dynasty.
To me, this is stimulating and a rare feature, but to the nation it seems to be something they wish to solve through very impressive rural revitalization projects. By sustaining the current two Chinas, this form of tourism not only provides an immersive historical experience, but could also serve as a soft power tool, fostering cross-cultural understanding.
As China continues to open up, there's an opportunity for domestic companies to enhance their communication strategies with Western tourism sectors, particularly in the post-COVID era, and this is something I look to contribute to as well.
3. The Direction of China: Modern Cities
Cities like Shenzhen and Nanjing have shattered my expectations of what modern urban centers can be. These metropolises don’t project but already embody a futuristic vision of green spaces, clean streets, and cutting-edge technology.
Their public areas are very much a utopian fantasy. Parks, libraries, shopping malls and social spaces are everywhere. Just an example, in Shenzhen I witnessed the test flight of a flying car – that’s right — the first in the world and it was not even an exhibition. The vehicle was taking off, conducting a test flight as I went for a morning swim.
Ambitious, educated and high energy (but optimistic) individuals can be found everywhere. The environment and infrastructure of these locations is what drew people from the countryside, but from there it fostered a rare Chinese trait – unwavering optimism.
Unlike the historical and politically charged atmosphere of Beijing, or the overall pessimism of my demographic in Europe, these cities and those working here are not just money hungry, but they envision a future that is indeed better than today. I think this is what I like most about the Chinese since coming here… whether it be in Xi’an or western China where they are quite literally building brand new cities to be inhabited in the next 100 years, to self-driving electric cars being the norm, China seems to be at the forefront of the world – at an immense, almost unfathomable scale.
4. The Food: A Culinary Adventure
My many adventures in China have been both challenging and rewarding. While my low tolerance for spicy and oily foods initially limited my options, it led me to discover the fresh, delicate flavors of Cantonese cuisine and the hearty, aromatic dishes of Hui and Xinjiang cooking.
I simply love meat, and just yesterday I had a dinner of Dongbei food. I have never had such sweet, sticky, delicious fried pork and chicken, with a uniquely frozen black pear and bulbous rice.
Food has the power to tell stories, especially when eaten with those from the culture being served. My culinary exploration has not only been a fattening experience (in fact I have never weighed more than I do now) but served also as a window into the regional and cultural diversity of China. Each dish tells a story of local history, geography, and culture, which only adds to the enjoyment… alongside the price.
Truth be told I have spent US$5.00 on two delicious meals a day since arrival. This is not even enough for a coffee in the streets of post-pandemic, post-Brexit, culturally sensitive London.
5. The Expat Experience: Clusters and Beyond
Living in China as a foreigner has at times been lonely, but that is true for everywhere. It is in these times of isolation that clarity of thought presents itself. Whilst I have remained distant from the expat communities, I am familiar with them. But often it is best to step outside the typical expatriate bubbles and make some local friends, of which I have done my best to do.
There is one small fact of life that we must consider. That is money. We have to go where the work is. This leads many expats and foreigners into certain bubbles. When talking with many of the foreigners, they all visit the same places, live in the same areas and don’t really break out of their pockets of convenience.
This restriction is not necessarily enforced, just born out of practicality, especially for those who don’t speak the language, struggle with the internet or can’t handle the food. Saying this, for the first time in Chinese history, work or visa requirements are on track to become extremely liberal. In that sense I mean foreigners from more nations than ever won’t need visas or can get a visa on arrival.
This won’t lead to the equivalent of English Chinatowns in the Mainland (I would quite like that and think many Chinese would too) but China's gradual opening is creating new opportunities for deeper cultural immersion. On a side note, I also find this fascinating as there seems to be a 300-year perpetual cycle in China where they open up to the world, then close down for a shorter amount of time. We are entering the opening-up era now!
Hong Kong is and will remain a gateway into the Orient. It will become more like the Mainland in the coming years, but remains a nice fusion or hybrid of East and West, with easy food, interesting culture, a rich history and a beautiful "Fragrant Harbour."
It is also sentimental to those British reading this who's family might have lived there like me... and their telling of stories about it back in the “old days.” Speaking of which I must ask my grandfather for his old recordings from the 1980s as he was an amateur videographer —and those tapes would make for fascinating viewing.
But back to the point in hand, if you want true adventure into the unknown, we at the School of Journalism and Communication are told regularly the western parts of China are in huge demand for foreign journalists. It shows the cyclical nature of China, especially when you know the history of Xi'an.
But now it is the world's biggest city Chongqing, or the cultural hub of Chengdu that have a lack of foreign insight, which means it will be truly interesting to live there. If like me you are drawn to this type of life then another good option is the deep south... where whole Chinese cultures (notably the Tulou dwelling communities of Fujian province) that were only rediscovered in the 1990s when American spy planes thought their homesteads in the mountains were missile silos. The climate is also most wonderful year-round and unlike the northern regions, shorts and flip flops weather — another huge win for me.
6. Commercial Opportunities and Challenges
I do not like talking about money, but I love business. The two are inseparable! This is in itself a very Chinese characteristic I have somehow been born with. It could align with old English and Chinese mindsets. But either way, it remains a trait of modern China.
This must be considered when navigating the commercial landscape in China. This outlook and arena is ripe, whether you are a business creator, consumer or looking to join a corporation. Yes, it presents both opportunities and hurdles, which are on the China scale, meaning it is much larger than you and I are likely used to – but it is very much worth it.
The two big ones I have observed are the difficulties in money exchange and establishing internet communications with Western providers. They are frustrating, a bit scary and significant. A lot like the language barrier, they can’t be changed and are challenges we must overcome.
However, like with all hard things, that many find difficult to solve their lies opportunity. Those who can bridge the gap between Chinese and Western systems will make considerable profits. Those who can align with the Chinese industry open themselves to the largest consumer market in human history.
But on a micro scale, to put things in perspective, the cost of living is 20% of most European nations and the pay for private sector roles almost double. This is a good baseline.
7. The Future of China
My 225 days in China have given me a rare glimpse into the country's incredible potential and future trajectory. The rapid development of new cities, the widespread adoption of technology, government policy that works for the betterment of society and logistics and infrastructure which are truly convenient all paint a picture of a society focused on quality of life.
This uniquely aligns with what I learned from many of the young communists here. They are working not towards making everyone poor and equal but providing a common wealth. The affordability of daily living, exemplified by the low cost of meals and transportation, seems to stand true to this. There is no homelessness and nobody is starving.
The absence of visible social issues like gun and knife violence or drug abuse is refreshing. Coupled with the general sense of safety and acceptance I've experienced as a foreigner, challenges many Western perceptions of China. In the 225 days thus far, it has completely changed my own opinion and view toward this nation. Whilst we are stuck between geopolitical tensions and negative sentiments stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic, China continues to forge ahead, balancing rapid modernization with cultural preservation.
To me, coming from England this can only be seen as a win-win. This unique experience has also showed me as an outsider looking in, from within, China is multifaceted with a very different outlook on life, especially with regards to how it offers a different form of freedom… it is suitable for me…
My book, “Across China in 250 pages” failed to predict much of the insights from the last 225 days. That is to be expected, yet many of the macro features were quite accurate.
Yet in the next book and for the next international visitor, it might be worth thinking, or even exploring this idea about the face of freedom, the one we might not grow up with in the West, but the one that offers peace of mind, stability, no crime and comfort in convenience. It is indeed a more accessible freedom, and one China seems to have achieved.
In the coming years, it will be most fascinating to observe this nation that simultaneously embraces its ancient heritage and races towards a futuristic vision... I am excited to see how it evolves, but one thing is certain, the scale and speed will be like nothing humanity has ever witnessed.
If you enjoyed this article, Across China in 250 Pages might be of interest – original paperback –available via the link below : Across China in 250 Pages: Amazon.co.uk: Finneran, Tudor: 9798594481060: Books
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